1/35 scale FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle Hellenic Army

[RILE-NS]

The problem started that summer, four months after buying it.
There was no expiry date on the box ,so I didn't know that I should make it A.S.P.I got the information about this material after, from the  people that had the same problem like me.I read about this problem few times on Modelclub forum too. I didn't said that this problem will stop me.I will fix it ,thats  for shure.And something else is for shure, but never mind.
Until year or two ago this was only Mercedes Benz G model in 1/35 so we didn't had any other choice so I respect White Tower effort,but...
By noticing this I was trying only to explain to our friends here how realy difficult is to make this model of yours. Mea Culpa

[Nick_Karatzides]

There was no expiry date on the box ,so I didn't know that I should make it A.S.P.

Ivan,

There is no expiry date written on the tomatoes when you buy from the grocery, but we all know that tomatoes should be eaten fresh. As said before, polyester is a special material which needs special attention. That's 1.0.1 for an experienced modeler who builds special models and WTM products are for advanced modelers - not rookies. If I had any problems or questions about the polyester material, I would ask the producer for infos - not people that might do not have the knowledge or experience.

[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER V - Main model building & detailing

Following the simple assembly instructions, I placed each polyester item on place using two-component cyanoacrylate glue for best results. The model parts are molded in such way that no putty is needed to fill any gaps - just cut the polyester from part's tree and glue it on spot.

Checking the parts carefully, I found that the the items dimensions (including thickness) was extremely accurate on scale. As you can see, by checking the following pictures, some polyester parts of the model is so thin, you can actually see in through them. That specific feature makes the model very realistic and accurate on scale, but special attention is needed while handling the polyester parts, as it is quite possible to break.

The driver's hatch release handle, have been detailed according the diagrams found into FDCV's TM - Technical Manual. I glued it in "CLOSED" position.

As soon as all the details, hatch covers, handles, fuel canisters etc were fit & glued on FDCV, I spray a primer light layer over the model to prepare for painting process and highlight any deficiencies that had escaped my attention so far.

[RILE-NS]

This White Tower resin is for suicide. In Japan they call it harakiri. Each time I open the box to see this model it is in different shape and condition.If I finnaly finish it, it will be after a few ours of work with hair dryier and hot water,to make it come in original shape.Not to say that, if finished  model ,by any chance or magic, ends off the shelf it is gone  for good and in one million pieces.

@ RILE-NS (Ivan Ristic?),

As far as I know, White Tower uses polyester - not the usual resin. It is known that White Tower Models kits are for advanced & experienced modelers only and maybe you should never deal trying to build one if you have not the prior experience on that type of material. I've personally build the same model (Mercedes Benz 240GD) you mentioned during the 90ies and did not have any problem at all. Scale models, you know, cannot build by themselves and we should not blame plastic, resin, polyester or else for anything - a human called "modeler", is always needed and always responsible for the final model appearance. As for the rest (different shape & condition of model each time you open the box), I cannot say more... As mentioned in previous paragraphs, polyester model parts, are losing elasticity and become harder and inflexible (and therefore fragile), few months or years after production - didn't you know that? The model you bought on 2001, should built immediately and not let into the box for almost a decade. So, what did you expect for almost 10 years? IMHO, the fault is yours.

The problem started that summer, four months after buying it. There was no expiry date on the box ,so I didn't know that I should make it A.S.P.I got the information about this material after, from the  people that had the same problem like me.I read about this problem few times on Modelclub forum too. I didn't said that this problem will stop me.I will fix it ,thats  for shure.And something else is for shure, but never mind. Until year or two ago this was only Mercedes Benz G model in 1/35 so we didn't had any other choice so I respect White Tower effort,but... By noticing this I was trying only to explain to our friends here how realy difficult is to make this model of yours. Mea Culpa

Ivan,

As said before, polyester is a special material which needs special attention. that's 1.0.1 for a modeler who builds special models. If I had any problems with a material, I would ask the producer - not people that might do not have the knowledge.

OK ,what ever .If you think that the things are like that, its your problem.This conversation with you helped me to understand a lot of things.I hope that I will have chance to talk with you in personal some day.

[Nick_Karatzides]

OK ,what ever .If you think that the things are like that, its your problem. This conversation with you helped me to understand a lot of things. I hope that I will have chance to talk with you in personal some day.

Judging by your answers, I guess that:

• Your English language is not so good or maybe you are trying (unsuccessfully?) to translate your native language to English, so the meaning of your writing is quite different from what you have in mind

OR

• You are you in an (unexplained) aggressive mood with me or my FDCV scale model article, so it's better for you to start cooling down before adding useless spam. I really do not need this, forum members who read this article, also do not need this too.

I believe, I answered your questions concerning the polyester material handling, with proper and kind way. If you like to ask anything about the FDCV building process, please do. If not, and if you like to discuss something different or chit-chat, use the PM feature (that's why the PMs are for). It's not good to add spam on this article. There are forum members out there, who are interested to read about tips & techniques while building this model and I am sure that they are not interested to read endless spaming and your annoying aggressive comments such as "its your problem".

Right son?

[Nick_Karatzides]

I used ordinary gauze cloth, taken from the first aid kit, cut it to shape and place it on FDCV upper surface, to simulate the camouflage net. Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I formed the gauze net with a wet brush, into the desired shape. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, the gauze net becomes hard when the water dries.

[nex999]

Absolutely stunning work, as usual. That net is brilliant.

[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER VI - Applying paint, wash & weather effects

The first FDCVs, received by Hellenic Army and entered active duty, on 1986. Until 1990, more than 20 vehicles were in Greek service. They were painted with the CARC - Chemical Agent Resistant Coating. This paint is specially formulated to reduce the vehicle's IR image reflection. When the FDCVs were received by the Hellenic Army and by the mid-1990s, did not have national markings on the side of the vehicle. What I'll try to display, is an FDCV scale model as they appeared during the early 90ies period, few years after first entrance in service. The following two pictures, kindly given by Mr. Christos Simitsis / White Tower Models, show an FDCV as presented during the October 28th 1990 National military parade in Thessaloniki, Greece.

The scale model carefully washed with liquid soap and warm water to disappear leaving oil traces, fingertips etc. As long as the model was already light gray primed, using free hand airbrushing, enamel black paint preshading lines across the panel lines & details.

[Nick_Karatzides]

I believe that the basic CARC FS34079 "Leaf Green" colour, can be simulated with the Humbrol's H116 or Gunze Sangyo's GSH309. Because I had something different in mind and I was hoping to present more than one color tones on model's surface, I tried the FS34094 "Bronze Green" which is available by Life Color as UA303 acrylic and also got the UA706 and UA210 by Life Color too, for the basic CARC color fading and darkening mixtures.

Using the SLC - Scale Lighting effect Calculator program, I placed as basic colour the FS34079 (RGB code 62x68x54) and set parameters such as 1/35 scale, appearance of model's surface in a scale from a "new - just painted" level to "old - paints are fade" level, according to what I had in mind, etc. The program, draw results (for example RGB code 84x90x77 which is close to FS34094) as suggested 13% scale lighting paint for the model, considering the scale effect and the mid-weathered appearance I set as data. Offcourse, the high lighted or intentional faded areas, will be enlighted more, using sand tones.

Here is the way of US M-992 FAASVs are painted, as presented into US Army's TB 43-0209 (pages 252 & 253) and TM 9-2350-267-10 Technical Manuals. As noted before, the Hellenic Army's FDCVs are not 3-tones camouflaged - they are painted with one colour only (FS34079 "Leaf Green") known as CARC - Chemical Agent Resistant Coating, specially formulated to reduce the vehicle's IR image reflection.

From CARC paint manufacturer's brochure (page 5) found in HERE it is clear that "...MilSpray CARC touchup, creates no IR image...".

Also, in page 2 you can read: "...Key to survivability in combat is avoidance of enemy detection systems and IR homing weapons. CARC coated vehicles and equipment have signature-reduction properties that diminish the effectiveness of existing and emerging enemy detection and targeting systems. While infrared reflectivity is one element of signature-reduction, other characteristics and their particulars are considered classified information. Infrared Signature (IR) management is one of the least understood, yet most important attributes of the CARC camouflage system. Each of the colors in the camouflage system contains a special pigment package that camouflages vehicles and equipment when they are in their intended theater of operation. As an example, the 383 green color in the camouflage pattern, has an IR signature equal, or less than, that of chlorophyll. When viewed in IR, the vehicle will blend in with the wooded environment and will not create an IR signature that could be used by enemy weapons systems having IR homing technology. IR homing weapons systems can be found in MANPADs and many shoulder fired missiles...".

[Nick_Karatzides]

The first base very diluted acrylic color was sprayed with no problem as a light layer and let dry overnight. As seen on the pictures, the black enamel preshading lines, are visible under the first applied color setting a base for the weathering process.

[Nick_Karatzides]

As soon as the previous very diluted Life Color acrylic paint layer dried, a second (very diluted also) and later a third FS34094 "Bronze Green" (aka Life Color UA303) acrylic layer sprayed over, so the final result will become dark enough, that can be considered as into a realistic tonality & lighting color range, while the black enamel preshading lines, are still visible under the applied color layers. Minor corrections were made in 1-2 spots with a fine brush. The result was sprayed with Humbrol enamel gloss varnish coat, to prepare the surface for water transfered decals applying and washing. Once satisfied with the result, the model was sprayed with Humbrol enamel matt coat, to seal the paint, the water transfered decals and the washing results.

Keep in mind that this FDCV scale model, represents a vehicle as it was during the early '90ies period, when no national markings were paint on the vehicle's side. Also, keep in mind, that during this specific period, the bronze plaque in honor of St. Barbara, which in the manners, customs and traditions of the Hellenic Army protects the Artillery, was not installed yet!

The WIP steps may be slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. After the Humbrol enamel matt coat dried, I had to add selectively some weather, rust & dust effects.

[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER VII - Display base & grass

I found nice idea to place it on a display base, simulating a field area covered with grass. From my local store, I bought a 20x30cm polished wooden picture frame.

I add some grams of plaster powder and few drops of water with a syringe into a soft rubber cup to make the right mixture. Materials like plaster, start as a dry powder that is mixed with water to form a paste which liberates heat and then hardens. Unlike mortar and cement, plaster remains quite soft after drying and this characteristic make plaster suitable for the job. Keep in mind that adding salt into wet plaster mixture, reduce the plaster's hardening time and adding vinegar into wet plaster mixture, extend the plaster's hardening time. When the first layer of thinned plaster applied on the picture frame, a glass were pushed against the plaster to form a flat basic strong cast.

I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.

Before the plaster cast got harden, I formed the field area into the desired shape to be suitable for the FDCV scale model. I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a dark and light earth colours, spraying from different directions and angles. Later, the field was drybrushed on selected spots using sand tones.

[Nick_Karatzides]

As for he grass & plants, I used three different ways:

• From my local hobby shop, I got different colours of static grass, empty them into a plastic box and make a mixture.

• Found into my garden perimeter, I collect few natural stuff, cut and placed into plastic box for such use.

• From my local super market, I got a small wicker broom. If you look closely, you'll find some very interesting stuff for scale modeling use and dioramas building.

[Nick_Karatzides]

Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I applied on the desired areas to be filled with grass & plants, using a wet brush. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, it is easy to correct possible mistakes.

Finally, the FDCV scale model glued on the base with silicon. Final details were added. The antenna masts, the Browning M-2HB 0.50" 12.7x99mm NATO machinegun, some extra dust weathering effect, etc.

[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER VIII - Epilogue

Considering that I am an aircraft scale modeler with no experience on tracked scale models, I have to say that I really enjoyed this FDCV building - no, I am not planing to build another AFV for the following 20-30 years. As for this polyester kit, I must admit it was much easier than expected. It is noticeable, that this Greek product by White Tower Models, had never been reviewed by any Greek scale modeling magazine or Greek discussion forum!

• I would understand, if the product was newly released and not widely known to Greek modelers community, but White Tower Models continues to product & sell this 1/35 scale FDCV model, since 1990.
  
• I would understand, if there were a big variety of scale model kits or accessories produced by Greek hands, but as far as I know, Greek scale model kit producers are less than 3 or 4. In fact, WTM, was the first Greek kit producer, ever.
  
• I would understand, if the product was not detailed enough (or not accurate on scale) to be considered as acceptable, but judging by the article's pictures and my personal experience while WIP, this 1/35 FDCV model, is highly detailed and more accurate than most of commercial plastic injected scale models, sold on our local hobby stores.
  
• I would understand, if the product was very expensive and out of reach for most scale modelers budget, but the (as far as I remember) 50 euros price sounds quite logical to me.
  
• I would understand, if the product was not an interesting subject, but as long as the real FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle is used only by the Hellenic Army, that makes it special for Greeks.
  
• I would understand, if there was already a much better 1/35 scale kit by Tamiya, or Dragon or else, but it is widely known that there is no complete FDCV (or the M-992 FAASV - Field Artillery Ammunition Support Vehicle version where FDCV is based on) kit available on the Worldwide market, in any form, by any producer.
  
• I would understand, if the product was too complicated and too difficult for the average 1/35 scale modeler to build, but as long as a rookie like me (with no experience on 1/35 scale AFV & tracked models) managed to build it and present it as you see in the above pictures, anybody could easily build it.

I hope you like the pictures: